Corsair Marine F-31 Spezifikationen PDF herunterladen (Seite 32)

SAFETY IN GENERAL

Capsize matters can be depressing, but to put it in

perspective, a capsize is simply very difficult to do. Luffing

up slightly, or bearing away (if on a reach) is usually all that

is required. The risk of capsize can be virtually eliminated

simply by reducing sail according to the conditions, and

being prepared to let the sheets go.

When under spinnaker in winds of over 20 knots it should

always be a matter of policy to never leave the spinnaker

sheet unattended. It should be hand held, not even cleated.

Cruisers shouldn't even use the spinnaker in over 20 knots.

Under main and jib you can still reach 15 knots, with

complete comfort and safety.

Fortunately it is very hard to capsize a Corsair trimaran,

but this can lead to overconfidence. Don't fall into this trap -

always be aware that it is possible to capsize, and reduce

speed accordingly to suit the conditions - just like any car.

TECHNICAL NOTES

WINCH LINE

The trailer winch line should be regularly replaced. This

tends to wear quite rapidly and is under a high strain when

lifting the mast. A breakage here could be very dangerous.

It is always advisable to stand clear of the line while lifting the

mast. Also, frequently check the trailer winch line is tight

when on a long trip.

SPRING RETAINING CLIPS

CAUTION: The spring retaining clips as used on the

Turnbuckle clevis pins should be regularly checked to en-

sure they will still 'clip' fit on the clevis pin. Replace if they

have lost their spring and become loose, otherwise you

could lose your mast.

These spring clips have been used successfully for over

20 years and are intended as a convenient 'quick rig' feature.

They are not as secure as a properly fitted cotter pin, and if

any doubts exist on their use then a cotter pin or circular ring

should be used instead, and a few of these are usually

included in the Toolbox. However these rings or pins will

increase rigging time, and the final decision in this regard is

for the owner.

LAUNCHING

If immersing the trailer to the bend in the frame will still not

let you free the boat, be careful; a few inches more can have

your boat drifting away, so have a bow line secured.

BEAM BOLTS

These should always be in place and tightened before

going sailing. Otherwise the Upper Folding Struts can again

be overloaded as above, due to the beam inner end being

forced up slightly by sailing loads.

It is also possible, but unlikely, for a Beam bolt to gall and

seize in a bolt pad, which can prevent you from folding up the

boat. If this happens, then you can still fold up the boat by

simply releasing the bolt pad nuts from inside, or cutting off

the Beam bolt head. To avoid this, keep the threads well

lubricated with a Teflon grease.

HOISTING MAINSAIL

If you find this is tight going up or down (a not uncommon

problem with full batten boltrope mains), there are now some

spray-on silicon compounds that can help. Remember to

also check that the mainsail foot outhaul is slackened off.

BEARING AWAY

Don't forget this is a very effective and safe way of

absorbing gusts while reaching in strong wind conditions,

particularly under spinnaker. Rounding up tends to throw the

mast to leeward (the wrong way), and can increase speed

dramatically - all very exciting. However, bearing away

throws mast to windward, speed falls off, and the motion

feels much safer. This may sound odd, but try it sometime in

lighter conditions to get confidence - it really works.

HEAVY HELM

The tiller should always be light and easy to handle, with

just one hand. If not, then there is something wrong. Usual

cause is the rudder blade has kicked back slightly. If this is

not the problem then rudder may not be raked far enough

forward. This can be changed by filling the pivot hole in the

rudder blade and re-drilling slightly further forward (say 1/4").

RUDDER/DAGGERBOARD HUM

This is not an uncommon occurrence due to the difficulty

in getting perfectly fair foils in a production environment, and

even carefully hand made foils can develop a hum. This can

be reduced or eliminated with a little fine tuning by filing or

sanding the trailing edge of the foil concerned as follows:

30° or smaller

Better

Good

Better if

The bottom left shape is probably the easiest to achieve

in practice, and the least likely to be damaged.

RUDDER VENTILATION

This can be a problem at very high speeds, and symp-

toms include a 'whoop' sound out the back, a huge rooster

tail, and no steering. This normally only happens with speeds

over 15 knots and fortunately the boat usually just keeps

tracking straight.

The cause is air being sucked down the side of the rudder

at high speeds, particularly if oversteering. Immediate cure

is to waggle the rudder a little, or bring it back onto the

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